Traditionelle opskrifter

En smag af ny amerikansk mad i en Sonoran -ørkenlandskab

En smag af ny amerikansk mad i en Sonoran -ørkenlandskab

Siden jeg flyttede til Phoenix for tre måneder siden, har min partner og jeg været glædeligt overrasket over kvaliteten af ​​maden, der blev præsenteret af mange af områdets kokke. Nogle af de verdensberømte feriesteder har altid vundet national anerkendelse som Helligdom’S Beau MacMillan eller Four Seasons ScottsdaleKok Mel Mecinas - og med rette, men madelskere i Amerika hører sjældent om noget særligt, der kommer ud af Phoenix's uafhængigt ejede restauranter.

Sandt nok har Phoenix et anerkendt navn: Chris Bianco, berømt for Pizzeria Bianco og hans håndværkspizza. Lille udvalg af tærter. Håndfræset Arizona durumhvede til skorper. Men ved kun at koncentrere mig om hr. Bianco, tror jeg, at mange af vores nationale kritikere har savnet båden på Solens dalens madscene.

Som den sjettestørste by i USA burde madtilfredse klage om spisning i vores sydvestlige stater. Det er imidlertid ikke tilfældet. Charleston; Portland, Oregon; og endda Dallas har stået i spidsen for den kulinariske afgift. Selv nationale madnyhedsbreve har ikke inkluderet en spiseguide til Phoenix's eksemplariske restauranter. Og glem de epikuriske publikationer. De udgiver 12 numre om året, så det er svært for dem at følge med i deres online tilstedeværelse om restauranter, da de arbejder på deres opskriftsudvikling. Og når de store epikuriske publikationer beslutter at inkludere sydvestlige kokke, er det en rundvisning. Dejligt, men kokke og restauratører fra Phoenix skaber ideelle kulinariske oplevelser og bør anerkendes for deres indsats ligesom i Charleston, Portland eller Dallas.

Med alt det sagt, langt inde i det nordlige Phoenix, forbi Piestewa Peak, langs en strækning af asfaltbånd kendt som Tatum Boulevard ligger et andet stribecenter befolket med designer -discountbutikker og asiatisk fastfood. Skjuler sig blandt alle detailhandler, med cirka 20 fod offentlig facade hviler en fønikisk perle navngivet Rusconis amerikanske køkken. Restaurantens navn er et udstillingsvindue for Phoenix som en smeltedigel. Ejes og drives af en italiensk amerikaner, der er født i Californien og opvokset i Chicago, Kokken Michael Rusconi gik på en kulinarisk skole i Vermont og bruger små Arizona -landmænds produkter og kød til at skabe overbevisende ny amerikansk mad. Fra mine personlige spiseoplevelser, både internationalt og indenlandsk, kan Rusconis retter lægges på det amerikanske restaurantbord med New York City’S Blue Ribbon Brasserie ejet af Bromberg Brothers, Neal Fraser's Redbird i Los Angelesog Jennifer Puccios Marlowe i San Francisco. Det handler ikke om at sammenligne, men at hver kok har et sted ved siden af ​​hinanden.

Rusconis amerikanske køkken er en hulagtig restaurant. Det virker lille fra det on-set, med en halv snes bistroborde udenfor. Indenfor forbi værtindebod og bar åbner det træagtige interiør sig og har plads til cirka hundrede spisende gæster. En tirsdag aften midt i en Sonoran ørkenforstad var den to et halvt år gamle restaurant fyldt med flere store fester og flere fire toppe. Flere velklædte par sad på barstole og talte med mixologen. Rusconis amerikanske køkken klarer sig meget godt, og det var stadig tidligt.

Da værtinden gik os til bords, havde vi frit udsyn til det åbne køkken. Kokken Rusconi dirigerede ved det åbne køkkens pas og kaldte retter. Fra min erfaring er det at se en kok, der leder sit personale, et tegn på et godt måltid. Det er en klar vej til gennemsigtighed fra køkkenet til spisestuen, kokken til spiseren.


Stegt kylling, generelt talende

I løbet af almindelige timer samler Lucas Sin's hurtige, afslappede koncept Junzi Kitchen husky-smagene i det nordlige Kina i nudelskåle og bing indpakninger. Men i weekenderne i New Haven og New York forvandler Junzi sig til et hangout efter aftensmad med juicebokscocktails og en mystisk stegt kyllingefad kendt som General Chu's Chicken-Sin hyldest til den kinesisk-amerikanske klassiker, General Tso's.

Synd klassificerer kinesisk-amerikansk mad som et regionalt kinesisk køkken. Og hvorfor ikke? "Det er lavet af kinesere, der tilfældigvis er i Amerika, og det overholder absolut kinesisk madlavningsfysik. Det er bare ikke mad, du finder i Kina selv. ”

Hans generelle Chu's Chicken opskrift i Den illustrerede Wok smider friturestegte mørke kødstykker i en uopladelig sauce, der på én gang er nutty og redolent, syrlig og funky. Sauceingredienserne fejrer grab-bag diaspora-madveje-sød chillirestik rørt med sesampasta, et strejf sort eddike, et snev af fermenteret tofu.

Hvordan ville du introducere fermenteret tofu til nogen, der aldrig har kogt med det?

LUCAS SIN Hos Junzi kalder vi det gerne furu. Oversættelser som "fermenteret tofu" eller "fermenteret sojabønnemasse" ser ud til at slukke folk.

Din grundlæggende furu 腐乳 er bare tofu, der lufttørres under hø og får lov at sidde ude, indtil den er gæret. Normalt den færdige furu kommer i saltlage med nogle chiliflager, men ikke meget krydderier. Ligesom andre gærede ting i Kina varierer den faktiske formel efter område, men den sort jeg foretrækker er nanru 南 乳, gæret med rød gærris og undertiden rosenvin, som vi i Hongkong moser til en marinade til stegt kylling (南 乳 炸鸡 nanru zha ji) - en nostalgisk kantonesisk ret, jeg spiste i min opvækst.

I nord bruger de meget regelmæssigt furu og meigui furu (玫瑰 腐乳 steg furu) til marinader og saucer. Roser eller rosenekstrakt tilsættes i de sidste faser af gæringen, hvilket ændrer farven og gør den lidt mere blomstret og sød. Og vi blander det i en masse af de saucer, vi bruger-ikke kun til marinader, men også til nudler og steger-saucer. En af de mest populære saucer på Junzi Kitchen er vores furu-sesam sauce. Den gærede tofu giver den bare et strejf af en funky smag.

Da vi så ingredienserne til din furu-samme sauce, tænkte vi straks på nordlig stil zhima jiang 芝麻酱, nogle gange serveret med varm gryde.

LS Nemlig. Det er en reference til smagen.

Bortset fra at blive brugt som en varm grydesauce, hvor ses sesamssovs ellers i det kinesiske køkken?

LS Det kan være en kold sauce eller en varm sauce til nudler. Temperaturen gør faktisk en stor forskel på grund af oliens tekstur. Sesamnudler er underligt koldt foretrukne på kantonesiske restauranter i USA. Men du kan også bruge sesam sauce som dip, til varm gryde samt snacks som friturestegt fiskeboller eller cheong sjov.

Vi kan ikke tænke på en anden ret, der blander sesamsauce med en sød chilisauce, som General Chu gør.

LS Det er klart, at General Chu's Chicken er et riff på den måske vigtigste amerikanske kinesiske ret nogensinde: General Tso's Chicken.

Første gang jeg havde General Tso's Chicken, anede jeg ikke, hvad der foregik. Jeg kunne identificere sukker, soja og majsstivelse. Bortset fra det kunne det have været ketchup, Sriracha, østerssauce, hvad som helst. Jeg havde ikke en anelse. Og den overraskelse, den følelse det hvad som helst kan gå i en General Tso -sauce var en inspiration for vores General Chus sauce.

Jeg nåede frem til alt hvad jeg kunne finde, der ville gøre stegt kylling ekstra lækker, og jeg fandt furu: lidt funk, lidt nostalgi og lidt nysgerrighed. Hvad angår den søde chilisauce, ville jeg bevare amerikansk kinesisk mads signatur dejlige sødme, hvorfor det er der.

Du har talt om mad som et fortællemiddel. Hvilken historie fortæller general Chu?

LS Tja, historien om General Tso's Chicken (eller General Chaos eller General Gau's) er, at fyren, der opfandt den, ikke engang genkender retten mere. Og han havde opkaldt den efter en fyr, der ikke vidste, at retten var opkaldt efter Hej M. Der er så meget mytologi bag, hvordan kyllingen blev til.

Selve retten er allestedsnærværende, og ikke fordi et eller andet hemmeligt kinesisk restauranthovedkvarter erklærede: "Sådan bliver det lavet herfra og frem." Den vandrede gennem uudtalte samarbejder inden for en diaspora, der tilfældigvis baserer meget af sin økonomi på restauranter. Opskrifterne spredte sig organisk fra nogens fætter til nogens onkel og videre i hele USA.

Vores General Chus kylling fejrer de samme kvaliteter. Jeg opkaldte det efter min første general manager, der drev vores restaurant i New Haven. Han vidste det ikke, før vi lagde plakaterne op. Han kom ind en dag som: "Vent, hvad?" Folk begyndte at sms'e og sende ham en e -mail om opskriften på hans kylling, og han var blandet sammen og sagde: "Jeg har intet at gøre med den kylling. Jeg genkender det ikke. Jeg steger ikke engang kylling på den måde derhjemme. Jeg har min egen opskrift, og jeg gør det i koreansk stil. ”

Især i New Haven er General Chu’s blevet et genstand for næsten kultisk fascination. Vi er af Yale, så alle disse elever kommer og siger: "O-o-åh, kan vi få General Chus kylling?" Og nogen kan lide: "Ikke Chu's, det er General Chaos", og derefter, "Nej, nej, nej, det er General Chu's!" Ingen ved, hvordan man udtaler det eller ved virkelig, hvad det er. Men efter at de har spist det et par gange, bliver det noget velkendt at vende tilbage til - en mærkelig, uudslettelig blanding af klæbrig, funky, sesam.

Indtil videre har General Chu's Chicken gjort det til sen-aften-menuen for begge vores lokationer og forbliver en signaturret. Forhåbentlig vil nogen smage det en dag og sige til sig selv: "Nej, dejen skal gøres på denne måde." Og de går hjem og finjusterer retten, mens de bærer nogle af de originale egenskaber ved General Chu’s videre. Det ville være fantastisk.

Fotos med tilladelse fra Junzi Kitchen. Få General Chus Kylling opskrift i Den illustrerede Wok.


Stegt kylling, generelt talende

I løbet af almindelige timer samler Lucas Sin's hurtige, afslappede koncept Junzi Kitchen husky-smagene i det nordlige Kina i nudelskåle og bing ombryder. Men i weekenden i New Haven og New York forvandler Junzi sig til et hangout efter aftensmad med juicebokscocktails og en mystisk stegt kyllingefad kendt som General Chu's Chicken-Sin hyldest til den kinesisk-amerikanske klassiker, General Tso's.

Synd klassificerer kinesisk-amerikansk mad som et regionalt kinesisk køkken. Og hvorfor ikke? "Det er lavet af kinesere, der tilfældigvis er i Amerika, og det overholder absolut kinesisk madlavningsfysik. Det er bare ikke mad, du finder i Kina selv. ”

Hans generelle Chu's Chicken opskrift i Den illustrerede Wok smider friturestegte mørke kødstykker i en uopladelig sauce, der på én gang er nutty og redolent, syrlig og funky. Sauceingredienserne fejrer grab-bag diaspora-madveje-sød chillirestik rørt med sesampasta, et strejf sort eddike, et snev af fermenteret tofu.

Hvordan ville du introducere fermenteret tofu til nogen, der aldrig har kogt med det?

LUCAS SIN Hos Junzi kalder vi det gerne furu. Oversættelser som "fermenteret tofu" eller "fermenteret sojabønnemasse" ser ud til at slukke folk.

Din grundlæggende furu 腐乳 er bare tofu, der lufttørres under hø og får lov at sidde ude, indtil den er gæret. Normalt den færdige furu kommer i saltlage med nogle chiliflager, men ikke meget krydderier. Ligesom andre gærede ting i Kina varierer den faktiske formel efter område, men den sort jeg foretrækker er nanru 南 乳, gæret med rød gærris og undertiden rosenvin, som vi i Hongkong moser til en marinade til stegt kylling (南 乳 炸鸡 nanru zha ji) - en nostalgisk kantonesisk ret, jeg spiste i min opvækst.

I nord bruger de meget regelmæssigt furu og meigui furu (玫瑰 腐乳 steg furu) til marinader og saucer. Roser eller rosenekstrakt tilsættes i de sidste faser af gæringen, hvilket ændrer farven og gør den lidt mere blomstret og sød. Og vi blander det i en masse af de saucer, vi bruger-ikke kun til marinader, men også til nudler og steger-saucer. En af de mest populære saucer på Junzi Kitchen er vores furu-sesam sauce. Den gærede tofu giver den bare et strejf af en funky smag.

Da vi så ingredienserne til din furu-samme sauce, tænkte vi straks på nordlig stil zhima jiang 芝麻酱, nogle gange serveret med varm gryde.

LS Nemlig. Det er en reference til smagen.

Bortset fra at blive brugt som en varm grydesauce, hvor ses sesamssovs ellers i det kinesiske køkken?

LS Det kan være en kold sauce eller en varm sauce til nudler. Temperaturen gør faktisk en stor forskel på grund af oliens struktur. Sesamnudler er underligt koldt foretrukne på kantonesiske restauranter i USA. Men du kan også bruge sesamsauce som dip, til varm gryde samt snacks som friturestegt fiskeboller eller cheong-sjov.

Vi kan ikke tænke på en anden ret, der blander sesamsauce med en sød chilisauce, som General Chu gør.

LS Det er klart, at General Chu's Chicken er et riff på den måske vigtigste amerikanske kinesiske ret nogensinde: General Tso's Chicken.

Første gang jeg havde General Tso's Chicken, anede jeg ikke, hvad der foregik. Jeg kunne identificere sukker, soja og majsstivelse. Bortset fra det kunne det have været ketchup, Sriracha, østerssauce, hvad som helst. Jeg havde ikke en anelse. Og den overraskelse, den fornemmelse det hvad som helst kan gå i en General Tso -sauce var en inspiration for vores General Chus sauce.

Jeg nåede frem til alt, hvad jeg kunne finde, der ville gøre stegt kylling ekstra lækker, og jeg fandt furu: lidt funk, lidt nostalgi og lidt nysgerrighed. Hvad angår den søde chilisauce, ville jeg bevare amerikansk kinesisk mads signatur dejlige sødme, hvorfor det er der.

Du har talt om mad som et fortællemiddel. Hvilken historie fortæller general Chu?

LS Tja, historien om General Tso's Chicken (eller General Chaos eller General Gau's) er, at fyren, der opfandt den, ikke engang genkender retten mere. Og han havde opkaldt den efter en fyr, der ikke vidste, at retten var opkaldt efter Hej M. Der er så meget mytologi bag, hvordan kyllingen blev til.

Selve retten er allestedsnærværende, og ikke fordi et eller andet hemmeligt kinesisk restauranthovedkvarter erklærede: "Sådan bliver det lavet herfra og frem." Den vandrede gennem uudtalte samarbejder inden for en diaspora, der tilfældigvis baserer meget af sin økonomi på restauranter. Opskrifterne spredte sig organisk fra nogens fætter til nogens onkel og videre i hele USA.

Vores General Chus kylling fejrer de samme kvaliteter. Jeg opkaldte det efter min første general manager, der drev vores restaurant i New Haven. Han vidste det ikke, før vi lagde plakaterne op. Han kom ind en dag som: "Vent, hvad?" Folk begyndte at sms'e og sende ham en e -mail om opskriften på hans kylling, og han var blandet sammen og sagde: "Jeg har intet at gøre med den kylling. Jeg genkender det ikke. Jeg steger ikke engang kylling på den måde derhjemme. Jeg har min egen opskrift, og jeg gør det i koreansk stil. ”

Især i New Haven er General Chu’s blevet et genstand for næsten kultisk fascination. Vi er af Yale, så alle disse elever kommer og siger: "O-o-åh, kan vi få General Chus kylling?" Og nogen kan lide: "Ikke Chu's, det er General Chaos", og derefter, "Nej, nej, nej, det er General Chu's!" Ingen ved, hvordan man udtaler det eller ved virkelig, hvad det er. Men efter at de har spist det et par gange, bliver det noget velkendt at vende tilbage til - en mærkelig, uudslettelig blanding af klæbrig, funky, sesam.

Indtil videre har General Chu's Chicken gjort det til sen-aften-menuen for begge vores lokationer og forbliver en signaturret. Forhåbentlig vil nogen smage det en dag og sige til sig selv: "Nej, dejen skal gøres på denne måde." Og de går hjem og finjusterer retten, mens de bærer nogle af de originale egenskaber ved General Chu’s videre. Det ville være fantastisk.

Fotos med tilladelse fra Junzi Kitchen. Få General Chus Kylling opskrift i Den illustrerede Wok.


Stegt kylling, generelt talende

I løbet af almindelige timer samler Lucas Sin's hurtige, afslappede koncept Junzi Kitchen husky-smagene i det nordlige Kina i nudelskåle og bing ombryder. Men i weekenden i New Haven og New York forvandler Junzi sig til et hangout efter aftensmad med juicebokscocktails og en mystisk stegt kyllingefad kendt som General Chu's Chicken-Sin hyldest til den kinesisk-amerikanske klassiker, General Tso's.

Synd klassificerer kinesisk-amerikansk mad som et regionalt kinesisk køkken. Og hvorfor ikke? "Det er lavet af kinesere, der tilfældigvis er i Amerika, og det overholder absolut kinesisk madlavningsfysik. Det er bare ikke mad, du finder i Kina selv. ”

Hans generelle Chu's Chicken opskrift i Den illustrerede Wok smider friturestegte mørke kødstykker i en uopladelig sauce, der på én gang er nutty og redolent, syrlig og funky. Sauceingredienserne fejrer grab-bag diaspora-madveje-sød chillirestik rørt med sesampasta, et strejf sort eddike, et snev af fermenteret tofu.

Hvordan ville du introducere fermenteret tofu til nogen, der aldrig har kogt med det?

LUCAS SIN Hos Junzi kalder vi det gerne furu. Oversættelser som "fermenteret tofu" eller "fermenteret sojabønnemasse" ser ud til at slukke folk.

Din grundlæggende furu 腐乳 er bare tofu, der lufttørres under hø og får lov at sidde ude, indtil den er gæret. Normalt den færdige furu kommer i en saltlage med nogle chiliflager, men ikke meget krydderier. Ligesom andre gærede ting i Kina varierer den faktiske formel efter område, men den sort jeg foretrækker er nanru 南 乳, gæret med rød gærris og undertiden rosenvin, som vi i Hongkong moser til en marinade til stegt kylling (南 乳 炸鸡 nanru zha ji) - en nostalgisk kantonesisk ret, jeg spiste i min opvækst.

I nord bruger de meget regelmæssigt furu og meigui furu (玫瑰 腐乳 steg furu) til marinader og saucer. Roser eller rosenekstrakt tilsættes i de sidste faser af gæringen, hvilket ændrer farven og gør den lidt mere blomstret og sød. Og vi blander det i mange af de saucer, vi bruger-ikke kun til marinader, men også til nudel- og omrøringssaucer. En af de mest populære saucer på Junzi Kitchen er vores furu-sesam sauce. Den gærede tofu giver den bare et strejf af en funky smag.

Da vi så ingredienserne til din furu-samme sauce, tænkte vi straks på nordlig stil zhima jiang 芝麻酱, nogle gange serveret med varm gryde.

LS Nemlig. Det er en reference til smagen.

Bortset fra at blive brugt som en varm grydesauce, hvor ses sesamssovs ellers i det kinesiske køkken?

LS Det kan være en kold sauce eller en varm sauce til nudler. Temperaturen gør faktisk en stor forskel på grund af oliens tekstur. Sesamnudler er underligt koldt foretrukne på kantonesiske restauranter i USA. Men du kan også bruge sesam sauce som dip, til varm gryde samt snacks som friturestegt fiskeboller eller cheong sjov.

Vi kan ikke tænke på en anden ret, der blander sesamsauce med en sød chilisauce, som General Chu gør.

LS Det er klart, at General Chu's Chicken er et riff på den måske vigtigste amerikanske kinesiske ret nogensinde: General Tso's Chicken.

Første gang jeg havde General Tso's Chicken, anede jeg ikke, hvad der foregik. Jeg kunne identificere sukker, soja og majsstivelse. Bortset fra det kunne det have været ketchup, Sriracha, østerssauce, hvad som helst. Jeg havde ikke en anelse. Og den overraskelse, den fornemmelse det hvad som helst kan gå i en General Tso -sauce var en inspiration for vores General Chus sauce.

Jeg nåede frem til alt hvad jeg kunne finde, der ville gøre stegt kylling ekstra lækker, og jeg fandt furu: lidt funk, lidt nostalgi og lidt nysgerrighed. Hvad angår den søde chilisauce, ville jeg bevare amerikansk kinesisk mads signatur herlige sødme, hvorfor det er der.

Du har talt om mad som et fortællemiddel. Hvilken historie fortæller general Chu?

LS Tja, historien om General Tso's Chicken (eller General Chaos eller General Gau's) er, at fyren, der opfandt den, ikke engang genkender retten mere. Og han havde opkaldt den efter en fyr, der ikke vidste, at retten var opkaldt efter Hej M. Der er så meget mytologi bag, hvordan kyllingen blev til.

Selve retten er allestedsnærværende, og ikke fordi et eller andet hemmeligt kinesisk restauranthovedkvarter erklærede: "Sådan bliver det lavet herfra og frem." Den vandrede gennem uudtalte samarbejder inden for en diaspora, der tilfældigvis baserer meget af sin økonomi på restauranter. Opskrifterne spredte sig organisk fra nogens fætter til nogens onkel og videre i hele USA.

Vores General Chus kylling fejrer de samme kvaliteter. Jeg opkaldte det efter min første general manager, der drev vores restaurant i New Haven. Han vidste det ikke, før vi lagde plakaterne op. Han kom ind en dag som: "Vent, hvad?" Folk begyndte at sms'e og sende ham en e -mail om opskriften på hans kylling, og han var blandet sammen og sagde: "Jeg har intet at gøre med den kylling. Jeg genkender det ikke. Jeg steger ikke engang kylling på den måde derhjemme. Jeg har min egen opskrift, og jeg gør det i koreansk stil. ”

Især i New Haven er General Chu’s blevet et genstand for næsten kultisk fascination. Vi er af Yale, så alle disse elever kommer og siger: "O-o-åh, kan vi få General Chus kylling?" Og nogen kan lide: "Ikke Chu's, det er General Chaos", og derefter, "Nej, nej, nej, det er General Chu's!" Ingen ved, hvordan man udtaler det eller ved virkelig, hvad det er. Men efter at de har spist det et par gange, bliver det noget velkendt at vende tilbage til - en mærkelig, uudslettelig blanding af klæbrig, funky, sesam.

Indtil videre har General Chu's Chicken gjort det til sen-aften-menuen for begge vores lokationer og forbliver en signaturret. Forhåbentlig vil nogen smage det en dag og sige til sig selv: "Nej, dejen skal gøres på denne måde." Og de går hjem og finjusterer retten, mens de bærer nogle af de originale egenskaber ved General Chu’s videre. Det ville være fantastisk.

Fotos med tilladelse fra Junzi Kitchen. Få General Chus Kylling opskrift i Den illustrerede Wok.


Stegt kylling, generelt talende

I løbet af almindelige timer samler Lucas Sin's hurtige, afslappede koncept Junzi Kitchen husky-smagene i det nordlige Kina i nudelskåle og bing ombryder. Men i weekenderne i New Haven og New York forvandler Junzi sig til et hangout efter aftensmad med juicebokscocktails og en mystisk stegt kyllingefad kendt som General Chu's Chicken-Sin hyldest til den kinesisk-amerikanske klassiker, General Tso's.

Synd klassificerer kinesisk-amerikansk mad som et regionalt kinesisk køkken. Og hvorfor ikke? "Det er lavet af kinesere, der tilfældigvis er i Amerika, og det overholder absolut kinesisk madlavningsfysik. Det er bare ikke mad, du finder i Kina selv. ”

Hans generelle Chu's Chicken opskrift i Den illustrerede Wok smider friturestegte mørke kødstykker i en uopladelig sauce, der på én gang er nutty og redolent, syrlig og funky. Sauceingredienserne fejrer grab-bag diaspora foodways-sød chillirestaurant rørt med sesampasta, et strejf sort eddike, et snev af fermenteret tofu.

Hvordan ville du introducere fermenteret tofu til nogen, der aldrig har kogt med det?

LUCAS SIN Hos Junzi kalder vi det gerne furu. Oversættelser som "fermenteret tofu" eller "fermenteret sojabønnemasse" ser ud til at slukke folk.

Din grundlæggende furu 腐乳 er bare tofu, der lufttørres under hø og får lov at sidde ude, indtil den er gæret. Normalt den færdige furu kommer i en saltlage med nogle chiliflager, men ikke meget krydderier. Ligesom andre gærede ting i Kina varierer den faktiske formel efter område, men den sort jeg foretrækker er nanru 南 乳, gæret med rød gærris og undertiden rosenvin, som vi i Hongkong moser til en marinade til stegt kylling (南 乳 炸鸡 nanru zha ji) - en nostalgisk kantonesisk ret, jeg spiste i min opvækst.

I nord bruger de meget regelmæssigt furu og meigui furu (玫瑰 腐乳 steg furu) til marinader og saucer. Roser eller rosenekstrakt tilsættes i de sidste faser af gæringen, hvilket ændrer farven og gør den lidt mere blomstret og sød. Og vi blander det i en masse af de saucer, vi bruger-ikke kun til marinader, men også til nudler og steger-saucer. En af de mest populære saucer i Junzi Kitchen er vores furu-sesam sauce. Den gærede tofu giver den bare et strejf af en funky smag.

Da vi så ingredienserne til din furu-samme sauce, tænkte vi straks på nordlig stil zhima jiang 芝麻酱, nogle gange serveret med varm gryde.

LS Nemlig. Det er en reference til smagen.

Bortset fra at blive brugt som en varm grydesauce, hvor ses sesamssovs ellers i det kinesiske køkken?

LS Det kan være en kold sauce eller en varm sauce til nudler. Temperaturen gør faktisk en stor forskel på grund af oliens struktur. Sesamnudler er underligt koldt foretrukne på kantonesiske restauranter i USA. Men du kan også bruge sesam sauce som dip, til varm gryde samt snacks som friturestegt fiskeboller eller cheong sjov.

Vi kan ikke tænke på en anden ret, der blander sesamsauce med en sød chilisauce, som General Chu gør.

LS Det er klart, at General Chu's Chicken er et riff på den måske vigtigste amerikanske kinesiske ret nogensinde: General Tso's Chicken.

Første gang jeg havde General Tso's Chicken, anede jeg ikke, hvad der foregik. Jeg kunne identificere sukker, soja og majsstivelse. Bortset fra det kunne det have været ketchup, Sriracha, østerssauce, hvad som helst. Jeg havde ikke en anelse. Og den overraskelse, den følelse det hvad som helst kan gå i en General Tsos sauce var en inspiration til vores General Chus sauce.

Jeg nåede frem til alt hvad jeg kunne finde, der ville gøre stegt kylling ekstra lækker, og jeg fandt furu: lidt funk, lidt nostalgi og lidt nysgerrighed. Hvad angår den søde chilisauce, ville jeg bevare amerikansk kinesisk mads signatur herlige sødme, hvorfor det er der.

Du har talt om mad som et fortællemiddel. Hvilken historie fortæller general Chu?

LS Tja, historien om General Tso's Chicken (eller General Chaos eller General Gau's) er, at fyren, der opfandt den, ikke engang genkender retten mere. Og han havde opkaldt den efter en fyr, der ikke vidste, at retten var opkaldt efter Hej M. Der er så meget mytologi bag, hvordan kyllingen blev til.

Selve retten er allestedsnærværende, og ikke fordi et eller andet hemmeligt kinesisk restauranthovedkvarter erklærede: "Sådan bliver det lavet herfra og frem." Den vandrede gennem uudtalte samarbejder inden for en diaspora, der tilfældigvis baserer meget af sin økonomi på restauranter. Opskrifterne spredte sig organisk fra nogens fætter til nogens onkel og videre i hele USA.

Vores General Chus kylling fejrer de samme kvaliteter. Jeg opkaldte det efter min første general manager, der drev vores restaurant i New Haven. Han vidste det ikke, før vi lagde plakaterne op. Han kom ind en dag som: "Vent, hvad?" Folk begyndte at sms'e og sende ham en e -mail om opskriften på hans kylling, og han var blandet sammen og sagde: "Jeg har intet at gøre med den kylling. Jeg genkender det ikke. Jeg steger ikke engang kylling på den måde derhjemme. Jeg har min egen opskrift, og jeg gør det i koreansk stil. ”

Især i New Haven er General Chu’s blevet et genstand for næsten kultisk fascination. Vi er af Yale, så alle disse elever kommer og siger: "O-o-åh, kan vi få General Chus kylling?" Og nogen kan lide: "Ikke Chu's, det er General Chaos", og derefter, "Nej, nej, nej, det er General Chu's!" Ingen ved, hvordan man udtaler det eller ved virkelig, hvad det er. Men efter at de har spist det et par gange, bliver det noget velkendt at vende tilbage til - en mærkelig, uudslettelig blanding af klæbrig, funky, sesam.

Indtil videre har General Chu's Chicken gjort det til sen-aften-menuen for begge vores lokationer og forbliver en signaturret. Forhåbentlig vil nogen smage det en dag og sige til sig selv: "Nej, dejen skal gøres på denne måde." Og de går hjem og justerer retten, mens de fortsætter med nogle af de originale egenskaber ved General Chu's. Det ville være fantastisk.

Fotos med tilladelse fra Junzi Kitchen. Få General Chus Kylling opskrift i Den illustrerede Wok.


Stegt kylling, generelt talende

I løbet af almindelige timer samler Lucas Sin's hurtige, afslappede koncept Junzi Kitchen husky-smagene i det nordlige Kina i nudelskåle og bing indpakninger. Men i weekenden i New Haven og New York forvandler Junzi sig til et hangout efter aftensmad med juicebokscocktails og en mystisk stegt kyllingefad kendt som General Chu's Chicken-Sin hyldest til den kinesisk-amerikanske klassiker, General Tso's.

Synd klassificerer kinesisk-amerikansk mad som et regionalt kinesisk køkken. Og hvorfor ikke? "Det er lavet af kinesere, der tilfældigvis er i Amerika, og det overholder absolut kinesisk madlavningsfysik. Det er bare ikke mad, du finder i Kina selv. ”

Hans generelle Chu's Chicken opskrift i Den illustrerede Wok smider friturestegte mørke kødstykker i en uopladelig sauce, der på én gang er nutty og redolent, syrlig og funky. Sauceingredienserne fejrer grab-bag diaspora foodways-sød chillirestaurant rørt med sesampasta, et strejf sort eddike, et snev af fermenteret tofu.

Hvordan ville du introducere fermenteret tofu til nogen, der aldrig har kogt med det?

LUCAS SIN Hos Junzi kalder vi det gerne furu. Oversættelser som "fermenteret tofu" eller "fermenteret sojabønnemasse" ser ud til at slukke folk.

Din grundlæggende furu 腐乳 er bare tofu, der lufttørres under hø og får lov at sidde ude, indtil den er gæret. Normalt den færdige furu kommer i en saltlage med nogle chiliflager, men ikke meget krydderier. Ligesom andre gærede ting i Kina varierer den faktiske formel efter område, men den sort jeg foretrækker er nanru 南 乳, gæret med rød gærris og undertiden rosenvin, som vi i Hongkong moser til en marinade til stegt kylling (南 乳 炸鸡 nanru zha ji) - en nostalgisk kantonesisk ret, jeg spiste i min opvækst.

I nord bruger de meget regelmæssigt furu og meigui furu (玫瑰 腐乳 steg furu) til marinader og saucer. Roser eller rosenekstrakt tilsættes i de sidste faser af gæringen, hvilket ændrer farven og gør den lidt mere blomstret og sød. Og vi blander det i mange af de saucer, vi bruger-ikke kun til marinader, men også til nudler og steger-saucer. En af de mest populære saucer på Junzi Kitchen er vores furu-sesam sauce. Den gærede tofu giver den bare et strejf af en funky smag.

Da vi så ingredienserne til din furu-samme sauce, tænkte vi straks på nordlig stil zhima jiang 芝麻酱, nogle gange serveret med varm gryde.

LS Nemlig. Det er en reference til smagen.

Bortset fra at blive brugt som en varm grydesauce, hvor ses sesamssovs ellers i det kinesiske køkken?

LS Det kan være en kold sauce eller en varm sauce til nudler. Temperaturen gør faktisk en stor forskel på grund af oliens struktur. Sesamnudler er underligt koldt foretrukne på kantonesiske restauranter i USA. But you can also use sesame sauce as a dip, for hot pot as well as snacks like deep-fried fish balls or cheong fun.

We can’t think of another dish that mixes sesame sauce with a sweet chilli sauce the way that General Chu’s does.

LS Obviously, General Chu’s Chicken is a riff on perhaps the most important American Chinese dish of all time: General Tso’s Chicken.

The first time I had General Tso’s Chicken, I had no idea what was going on. I could identify sugar, soy, and corn starch. Other than that, it could have been ketchup, Sriracha, oyster sauce, anything. I didn’t have a clue. And that surprise, that sense that hvad som helst can go into a General Tso’s sauce was an inspiration for our General Chu’s sauce.

I reached for whatever I could find that would make fried chicken extra delicious, and I found furu: a little bit of funk, a little bit of nostalgia, and a little bit of curiosity. As for the sweet chilli sauce, I wanted to maintain American Chinese food’s signature delectable sweetness, which is why that’s there.

You’ve spoken about food as a narrative medium. What story does General Chu’s tell?

LS Well, the story about General Tso’s Chicken (or General Chao’s, or General Gau’s) is that the guy who invented it doesn’t even recognize the dish any more. Og han had named it after a guy who didn’t know the dish was named after Hej M. There’s so much mythology behind how the chicken came to be.

The dish itself is ubiquitous, and not because some secret Chinese restaurant headquarters declared, “This is how it’s going to be made from here on out.” It migrated through unspoken collaborations within a diaspora that happens to base a lot of its economy in restaurants. The recipes spread organically from somebody’s cousin to somebody’s uncle and onward throughout the United States.

Our General Chu’s chicken celebrates those same qualities. I named it after my first general manager who ran our restaurant in New Haven. He didn’t know until we put the posters up. He came in one day like, “Wait, what?” People started texting and emailing him for the recipe for his chicken, and he was all mixed up, saying, “I have nothing to do with that chicken. I don’t recognize it. I don’t even fry chicken that way at home. I have my own recipe, and I do it Korean-style.”

In New Haven especially, General Chu’s has become an object of almost cultish fascination. We’re by Yale, so all of these students come in going, “O-o-oh, can we get the General Chu’s chicken?” And someone’s like, “Not Chu’s, it’s General Chao’s,” and then, “No, no, no, it’s General Chu’s!” Nobody knows how to pronounce it or knows really what it is. But after they eat it a couple times, it becomes something familiar to come back for – an odd, indecipherable mix of sticky, funky, sesame.

So far, General Chu’s Chicken has made it to the late-night menu for both of our locations, and remains a signature dish. Hopefully, someone will taste it someday and say to themselves, “No, the batter should be done this way.” And they’ll go home and tweak the dish, while carrying on some of the original characteristics of General Chu’s. That would be amazing.

Photos courtesy of Junzi Kitchen. Get the General Chus Chicken recipe in The Illustrated Wok.


Fried Chicken, Generally Speaking

During regular hours, Lucas Sin's fast-casual concept Junzi Kitchen bundles the husky flavors of northern China into noodle bowls and bing wraps. But on weekends in New Haven and New York, Junzi transforms into an after-hours hangout with juice box cocktails and a mysterious fried chicken dish known as General Chu’s Chicken – Sin's homage to the Chinese-American classic, General Tso’s.

Sin classifies Chinese-American food as a regional Chinese cuisine. Og hvorfor ikke? “It’s made by Chinese people who happen to be in America, and it absolutely abides by Chinese cooking physics. It’s just not food you’ll find in China itself.”

His General Chu’s Chicken recipe in The Illustrated Wok tosses deep-fried hunks of dark meat in an unplaceable sauce that is at once nutty and redolent, tangy and funky. The sauce ingredients celebrate grab-bag diaspora foodways – sweet chilli relish stirred with sesame paste, a dash of black vinegar, a whiff of fermented tofu.

How would you introduce fermented tofu to someone who has never cooked with it?

LUCAS SIN At Junzi, we like to call it furu. Translations like “fermented tofu” or “fermented soy bean curd” seem to turn people off.

Your basic furu 腐乳 is just tofu that’s air-dried under hay and left to sit out until it's fermented. Usually the finished furu comes in a brine with some chilli flakes, but not much seasoning. Like other fermented things in China, the actual formula varies by region, but the variety I favor is nanru 南乳, fermented with red yeast rice and sometimes rose wine, which in Hong Kong we mash into a marinade for fried chicken (南乳炸鸡 nanru zha ji) – a nostalgic Cantonese dish I ate growing up.

In the north, they use a lot of regular furu og meigui furu (玫瑰腐乳 rose furu) for marinades and sauces. Roses or rose extract is added during the final stages of fermentation, which changes the color and makes it a little more floral and sweet. And we blend that into a lot of the sauces we use – not only for the marinades, but also for noodle and stir-fry sauces. One of the most popular sauces at Junzi Kitchen is our furu-sesame sauce. The fermented tofu gives it just a hint of a funky flavor.

When we saw the ingredients for your furu-sesame sauce, we immediately thought of northern-style zhima jiang 芝麻酱, sometimes served with hot pot.

LS Exactly. That’s one reference for the flavor.

Aside from being used as a hot pot dipping sauce, where else does sesame sauce appear in Chinese cuisine?

LS It can be a cold sauce or a hot sauce for noodles. The temperature actually makes a big difference due to the texture of the oil. Sesame noodles are weirdly favored cold in Cantonese restaurants in the US. But you can also use sesame sauce as a dip, for hot pot as well as snacks like deep-fried fish balls or cheong fun.

We can’t think of another dish that mixes sesame sauce with a sweet chilli sauce the way that General Chu’s does.

LS Obviously, General Chu’s Chicken is a riff on perhaps the most important American Chinese dish of all time: General Tso’s Chicken.

The first time I had General Tso’s Chicken, I had no idea what was going on. I could identify sugar, soy, and corn starch. Other than that, it could have been ketchup, Sriracha, oyster sauce, anything. I didn’t have a clue. And that surprise, that sense that hvad som helst can go into a General Tso’s sauce was an inspiration for our General Chu’s sauce.

I reached for whatever I could find that would make fried chicken extra delicious, and I found furu: a little bit of funk, a little bit of nostalgia, and a little bit of curiosity. As for the sweet chilli sauce, I wanted to maintain American Chinese food’s signature delectable sweetness, which is why that’s there.

You’ve spoken about food as a narrative medium. What story does General Chu’s tell?

LS Well, the story about General Tso’s Chicken (or General Chao’s, or General Gau’s) is that the guy who invented it doesn’t even recognize the dish any more. Og han had named it after a guy who didn’t know the dish was named after Hej M. There’s so much mythology behind how the chicken came to be.

The dish itself is ubiquitous, and not because some secret Chinese restaurant headquarters declared, “This is how it’s going to be made from here on out.” It migrated through unspoken collaborations within a diaspora that happens to base a lot of its economy in restaurants. The recipes spread organically from somebody’s cousin to somebody’s uncle and onward throughout the United States.

Our General Chu’s chicken celebrates those same qualities. I named it after my first general manager who ran our restaurant in New Haven. He didn’t know until we put the posters up. He came in one day like, “Wait, what?” People started texting and emailing him for the recipe for his chicken, and he was all mixed up, saying, “I have nothing to do with that chicken. I don’t recognize it. I don’t even fry chicken that way at home. I have my own recipe, and I do it Korean-style.”

In New Haven especially, General Chu’s has become an object of almost cultish fascination. We’re by Yale, so all of these students come in going, “O-o-oh, can we get the General Chu’s chicken?” And someone’s like, “Not Chu’s, it’s General Chao’s,” and then, “No, no, no, it’s General Chu’s!” Nobody knows how to pronounce it or knows really what it is. But after they eat it a couple times, it becomes something familiar to come back for – an odd, indecipherable mix of sticky, funky, sesame.

So far, General Chu’s Chicken has made it to the late-night menu for both of our locations, and remains a signature dish. Hopefully, someone will taste it someday and say to themselves, “No, the batter should be done this way.” And they’ll go home and tweak the dish, while carrying on some of the original characteristics of General Chu’s. That would be amazing.

Photos courtesy of Junzi Kitchen. Get the General Chus Chicken recipe in The Illustrated Wok.


Fried Chicken, Generally Speaking

During regular hours, Lucas Sin's fast-casual concept Junzi Kitchen bundles the husky flavors of northern China into noodle bowls and bing wraps. But on weekends in New Haven and New York, Junzi transforms into an after-hours hangout with juice box cocktails and a mysterious fried chicken dish known as General Chu’s Chicken – Sin's homage to the Chinese-American classic, General Tso’s.

Sin classifies Chinese-American food as a regional Chinese cuisine. Og hvorfor ikke? “It’s made by Chinese people who happen to be in America, and it absolutely abides by Chinese cooking physics. It’s just not food you’ll find in China itself.”

His General Chu’s Chicken recipe in The Illustrated Wok tosses deep-fried hunks of dark meat in an unplaceable sauce that is at once nutty and redolent, tangy and funky. The sauce ingredients celebrate grab-bag diaspora foodways – sweet chilli relish stirred with sesame paste, a dash of black vinegar, a whiff of fermented tofu.

How would you introduce fermented tofu to someone who has never cooked with it?

LUCAS SIN At Junzi, we like to call it furu. Translations like “fermented tofu” or “fermented soy bean curd” seem to turn people off.

Your basic furu 腐乳 is just tofu that’s air-dried under hay and left to sit out until it's fermented. Usually the finished furu comes in a brine with some chilli flakes, but not much seasoning. Like other fermented things in China, the actual formula varies by region, but the variety I favor is nanru 南乳, fermented with red yeast rice and sometimes rose wine, which in Hong Kong we mash into a marinade for fried chicken (南乳炸鸡 nanru zha ji) – a nostalgic Cantonese dish I ate growing up.

In the north, they use a lot of regular furu og meigui furu (玫瑰腐乳 rose furu) for marinades and sauces. Roses or rose extract is added during the final stages of fermentation, which changes the color and makes it a little more floral and sweet. And we blend that into a lot of the sauces we use – not only for the marinades, but also for noodle and stir-fry sauces. One of the most popular sauces at Junzi Kitchen is our furu-sesame sauce. The fermented tofu gives it just a hint of a funky flavor.

When we saw the ingredients for your furu-sesame sauce, we immediately thought of northern-style zhima jiang 芝麻酱, sometimes served with hot pot.

LS Exactly. That’s one reference for the flavor.

Aside from being used as a hot pot dipping sauce, where else does sesame sauce appear in Chinese cuisine?

LS It can be a cold sauce or a hot sauce for noodles. The temperature actually makes a big difference due to the texture of the oil. Sesame noodles are weirdly favored cold in Cantonese restaurants in the US. But you can also use sesame sauce as a dip, for hot pot as well as snacks like deep-fried fish balls or cheong fun.

We can’t think of another dish that mixes sesame sauce with a sweet chilli sauce the way that General Chu’s does.

LS Obviously, General Chu’s Chicken is a riff on perhaps the most important American Chinese dish of all time: General Tso’s Chicken.

The first time I had General Tso’s Chicken, I had no idea what was going on. I could identify sugar, soy, and corn starch. Other than that, it could have been ketchup, Sriracha, oyster sauce, anything. I didn’t have a clue. And that surprise, that sense that hvad som helst can go into a General Tso’s sauce was an inspiration for our General Chu’s sauce.

I reached for whatever I could find that would make fried chicken extra delicious, and I found furu: a little bit of funk, a little bit of nostalgia, and a little bit of curiosity. As for the sweet chilli sauce, I wanted to maintain American Chinese food’s signature delectable sweetness, which is why that’s there.

You’ve spoken about food as a narrative medium. What story does General Chu’s tell?

LS Well, the story about General Tso’s Chicken (or General Chao’s, or General Gau’s) is that the guy who invented it doesn’t even recognize the dish any more. Og han had named it after a guy who didn’t know the dish was named after Hej M. There’s so much mythology behind how the chicken came to be.

The dish itself is ubiquitous, and not because some secret Chinese restaurant headquarters declared, “This is how it’s going to be made from here on out.” It migrated through unspoken collaborations within a diaspora that happens to base a lot of its economy in restaurants. The recipes spread organically from somebody’s cousin to somebody’s uncle and onward throughout the United States.

Our General Chu’s chicken celebrates those same qualities. I named it after my first general manager who ran our restaurant in New Haven. He didn’t know until we put the posters up. He came in one day like, “Wait, what?” People started texting and emailing him for the recipe for his chicken, and he was all mixed up, saying, “I have nothing to do with that chicken. I don’t recognize it. I don’t even fry chicken that way at home. I have my own recipe, and I do it Korean-style.”

In New Haven especially, General Chu’s has become an object of almost cultish fascination. We’re by Yale, so all of these students come in going, “O-o-oh, can we get the General Chu’s chicken?” And someone’s like, “Not Chu’s, it’s General Chao’s,” and then, “No, no, no, it’s General Chu’s!” Nobody knows how to pronounce it or knows really what it is. But after they eat it a couple times, it becomes something familiar to come back for – an odd, indecipherable mix of sticky, funky, sesame.

So far, General Chu’s Chicken has made it to the late-night menu for both of our locations, and remains a signature dish. Hopefully, someone will taste it someday and say to themselves, “No, the batter should be done this way.” And they’ll go home and tweak the dish, while carrying on some of the original characteristics of General Chu’s. That would be amazing.

Photos courtesy of Junzi Kitchen. Get the General Chus Chicken recipe in The Illustrated Wok.


Fried Chicken, Generally Speaking

During regular hours, Lucas Sin's fast-casual concept Junzi Kitchen bundles the husky flavors of northern China into noodle bowls and bing wraps. But on weekends in New Haven and New York, Junzi transforms into an after-hours hangout with juice box cocktails and a mysterious fried chicken dish known as General Chu’s Chicken – Sin's homage to the Chinese-American classic, General Tso’s.

Sin classifies Chinese-American food as a regional Chinese cuisine. Og hvorfor ikke? “It’s made by Chinese people who happen to be in America, and it absolutely abides by Chinese cooking physics. It’s just not food you’ll find in China itself.”

His General Chu’s Chicken recipe in The Illustrated Wok tosses deep-fried hunks of dark meat in an unplaceable sauce that is at once nutty and redolent, tangy and funky. The sauce ingredients celebrate grab-bag diaspora foodways – sweet chilli relish stirred with sesame paste, a dash of black vinegar, a whiff of fermented tofu.

How would you introduce fermented tofu to someone who has never cooked with it?

LUCAS SIN At Junzi, we like to call it furu. Translations like “fermented tofu” or “fermented soy bean curd” seem to turn people off.

Your basic furu 腐乳 is just tofu that’s air-dried under hay and left to sit out until it's fermented. Usually the finished furu comes in a brine with some chilli flakes, but not much seasoning. Like other fermented things in China, the actual formula varies by region, but the variety I favor is nanru 南乳, fermented with red yeast rice and sometimes rose wine, which in Hong Kong we mash into a marinade for fried chicken (南乳炸鸡 nanru zha ji) – a nostalgic Cantonese dish I ate growing up.

In the north, they use a lot of regular furu og meigui furu (玫瑰腐乳 rose furu) for marinades and sauces. Roses or rose extract is added during the final stages of fermentation, which changes the color and makes it a little more floral and sweet. And we blend that into a lot of the sauces we use – not only for the marinades, but also for noodle and stir-fry sauces. One of the most popular sauces at Junzi Kitchen is our furu-sesame sauce. The fermented tofu gives it just a hint of a funky flavor.

When we saw the ingredients for your furu-sesame sauce, we immediately thought of northern-style zhima jiang 芝麻酱, sometimes served with hot pot.

LS Exactly. That’s one reference for the flavor.

Aside from being used as a hot pot dipping sauce, where else does sesame sauce appear in Chinese cuisine?

LS It can be a cold sauce or a hot sauce for noodles. The temperature actually makes a big difference due to the texture of the oil. Sesame noodles are weirdly favored cold in Cantonese restaurants in the US. But you can also use sesame sauce as a dip, for hot pot as well as snacks like deep-fried fish balls or cheong fun.

We can’t think of another dish that mixes sesame sauce with a sweet chilli sauce the way that General Chu’s does.

LS Obviously, General Chu’s Chicken is a riff on perhaps the most important American Chinese dish of all time: General Tso’s Chicken.

The first time I had General Tso’s Chicken, I had no idea what was going on. I could identify sugar, soy, and corn starch. Other than that, it could have been ketchup, Sriracha, oyster sauce, anything. I didn’t have a clue. And that surprise, that sense that hvad som helst can go into a General Tso’s sauce was an inspiration for our General Chu’s sauce.

I reached for whatever I could find that would make fried chicken extra delicious, and I found furu: a little bit of funk, a little bit of nostalgia, and a little bit of curiosity. As for the sweet chilli sauce, I wanted to maintain American Chinese food’s signature delectable sweetness, which is why that’s there.

You’ve spoken about food as a narrative medium. What story does General Chu’s tell?

LS Well, the story about General Tso’s Chicken (or General Chao’s, or General Gau’s) is that the guy who invented it doesn’t even recognize the dish any more. Og han had named it after a guy who didn’t know the dish was named after Hej M. There’s so much mythology behind how the chicken came to be.

The dish itself is ubiquitous, and not because some secret Chinese restaurant headquarters declared, “This is how it’s going to be made from here on out.” It migrated through unspoken collaborations within a diaspora that happens to base a lot of its economy in restaurants. The recipes spread organically from somebody’s cousin to somebody’s uncle and onward throughout the United States.

Our General Chu’s chicken celebrates those same qualities. I named it after my first general manager who ran our restaurant in New Haven. He didn’t know until we put the posters up. He came in one day like, “Wait, what?” People started texting and emailing him for the recipe for his chicken, and he was all mixed up, saying, “I have nothing to do with that chicken. I don’t recognize it. I don’t even fry chicken that way at home. I have my own recipe, and I do it Korean-style.”

In New Haven especially, General Chu’s has become an object of almost cultish fascination. We’re by Yale, so all of these students come in going, “O-o-oh, can we get the General Chu’s chicken?” And someone’s like, “Not Chu’s, it’s General Chao’s,” and then, “No, no, no, it’s General Chu’s!” Nobody knows how to pronounce it or knows really what it is. But after they eat it a couple times, it becomes something familiar to come back for – an odd, indecipherable mix of sticky, funky, sesame.

So far, General Chu’s Chicken has made it to the late-night menu for both of our locations, and remains a signature dish. Hopefully, someone will taste it someday and say to themselves, “No, the batter should be done this way.” And they’ll go home and tweak the dish, while carrying on some of the original characteristics of General Chu’s. That would be amazing.

Photos courtesy of Junzi Kitchen. Get the General Chus Chicken recipe in The Illustrated Wok.


Fried Chicken, Generally Speaking

During regular hours, Lucas Sin's fast-casual concept Junzi Kitchen bundles the husky flavors of northern China into noodle bowls and bing wraps. But on weekends in New Haven and New York, Junzi transforms into an after-hours hangout with juice box cocktails and a mysterious fried chicken dish known as General Chu’s Chicken – Sin's homage to the Chinese-American classic, General Tso’s.

Sin classifies Chinese-American food as a regional Chinese cuisine. Og hvorfor ikke? “It’s made by Chinese people who happen to be in America, and it absolutely abides by Chinese cooking physics. It’s just not food you’ll find in China itself.”

His General Chu’s Chicken recipe in The Illustrated Wok tosses deep-fried hunks of dark meat in an unplaceable sauce that is at once nutty and redolent, tangy and funky. The sauce ingredients celebrate grab-bag diaspora foodways – sweet chilli relish stirred with sesame paste, a dash of black vinegar, a whiff of fermented tofu.

How would you introduce fermented tofu to someone who has never cooked with it?

LUCAS SIN At Junzi, we like to call it furu. Translations like “fermented tofu” or “fermented soy bean curd” seem to turn people off.

Your basic furu 腐乳 is just tofu that’s air-dried under hay and left to sit out until it's fermented. Usually the finished furu comes in a brine with some chilli flakes, but not much seasoning. Like other fermented things in China, the actual formula varies by region, but the variety I favor is nanru 南乳, fermented with red yeast rice and sometimes rose wine, which in Hong Kong we mash into a marinade for fried chicken (南乳炸鸡 nanru zha ji) – a nostalgic Cantonese dish I ate growing up.

In the north, they use a lot of regular furu og meigui furu (玫瑰腐乳 rose furu) for marinades and sauces. Roses or rose extract is added during the final stages of fermentation, which changes the color and makes it a little more floral and sweet. And we blend that into a lot of the sauces we use – not only for the marinades, but also for noodle and stir-fry sauces. One of the most popular sauces at Junzi Kitchen is our furu-sesame sauce. The fermented tofu gives it just a hint of a funky flavor.

When we saw the ingredients for your furu-sesame sauce, we immediately thought of northern-style zhima jiang 芝麻酱, sometimes served with hot pot.

LS Exactly. That’s one reference for the flavor.

Aside from being used as a hot pot dipping sauce, where else does sesame sauce appear in Chinese cuisine?

LS It can be a cold sauce or a hot sauce for noodles. The temperature actually makes a big difference due to the texture of the oil. Sesame noodles are weirdly favored cold in Cantonese restaurants in the US. But you can also use sesame sauce as a dip, for hot pot as well as snacks like deep-fried fish balls or cheong fun.

We can’t think of another dish that mixes sesame sauce with a sweet chilli sauce the way that General Chu’s does.

LS Obviously, General Chu’s Chicken is a riff on perhaps the most important American Chinese dish of all time: General Tso’s Chicken.

The first time I had General Tso’s Chicken, I had no idea what was going on. I could identify sugar, soy, and corn starch. Other than that, it could have been ketchup, Sriracha, oyster sauce, anything. I didn’t have a clue. And that surprise, that sense that hvad som helst can go into a General Tso’s sauce was an inspiration for our General Chu’s sauce.

I reached for whatever I could find that would make fried chicken extra delicious, and I found furu: a little bit of funk, a little bit of nostalgia, and a little bit of curiosity. As for the sweet chilli sauce, I wanted to maintain American Chinese food’s signature delectable sweetness, which is why that’s there.

You’ve spoken about food as a narrative medium. What story does General Chu’s tell?

LS Well, the story about General Tso’s Chicken (or General Chao’s, or General Gau’s) is that the guy who invented it doesn’t even recognize the dish any more. Og han had named it after a guy who didn’t know the dish was named after Hej M. There’s so much mythology behind how the chicken came to be.

The dish itself is ubiquitous, and not because some secret Chinese restaurant headquarters declared, “This is how it’s going to be made from here on out.” It migrated through unspoken collaborations within a diaspora that happens to base a lot of its economy in restaurants. The recipes spread organically from somebody’s cousin to somebody’s uncle and onward throughout the United States.

Our General Chu’s chicken celebrates those same qualities. I named it after my first general manager who ran our restaurant in New Haven. He didn’t know until we put the posters up. He came in one day like, “Wait, what?” People started texting and emailing him for the recipe for his chicken, and he was all mixed up, saying, “I have nothing to do with that chicken. I don’t recognize it. I don’t even fry chicken that way at home. I have my own recipe, and I do it Korean-style.”

In New Haven especially, General Chu’s has become an object of almost cultish fascination. We’re by Yale, so all of these students come in going, “O-o-oh, can we get the General Chu’s chicken?” And someone’s like, “Not Chu’s, it’s General Chao’s,” and then, “No, no, no, it’s General Chu’s!” Nobody knows how to pronounce it or knows really what it is. But after they eat it a couple times, it becomes something familiar to come back for – an odd, indecipherable mix of sticky, funky, sesame.

So far, General Chu’s Chicken has made it to the late-night menu for both of our locations, and remains a signature dish. Hopefully, someone will taste it someday and say to themselves, “No, the batter should be done this way.” And they’ll go home and tweak the dish, while carrying on some of the original characteristics of General Chu’s. That would be amazing.

Photos courtesy of Junzi Kitchen. Get the General Chus Chicken recipe in The Illustrated Wok.


Fried Chicken, Generally Speaking

During regular hours, Lucas Sin's fast-casual concept Junzi Kitchen bundles the husky flavors of northern China into noodle bowls and bing wraps. But on weekends in New Haven and New York, Junzi transforms into an after-hours hangout with juice box cocktails and a mysterious fried chicken dish known as General Chu’s Chicken – Sin's homage to the Chinese-American classic, General Tso’s.

Sin classifies Chinese-American food as a regional Chinese cuisine. Og hvorfor ikke? “It’s made by Chinese people who happen to be in America, and it absolutely abides by Chinese cooking physics. It’s just not food you’ll find in China itself.”

His General Chu’s Chicken recipe in The Illustrated Wok tosses deep-fried hunks of dark meat in an unplaceable sauce that is at once nutty and redolent, tangy and funky. The sauce ingredients celebrate grab-bag diaspora foodways – sweet chilli relish stirred with sesame paste, a dash of black vinegar, a whiff of fermented tofu.

How would you introduce fermented tofu to someone who has never cooked with it?

LUCAS SIN At Junzi, we like to call it furu. Translations like “fermented tofu” or “fermented soy bean curd” seem to turn people off.

Your basic furu 腐乳 is just tofu that’s air-dried under hay and left to sit out until it's fermented. Usually the finished furu comes in a brine with some chilli flakes, but not much seasoning. Like other fermented things in China, the actual formula varies by region, but the variety I favor is nanru 南乳, fermented with red yeast rice and sometimes rose wine, which in Hong Kong we mash into a marinade for fried chicken (南乳炸鸡 nanru zha ji) – a nostalgic Cantonese dish I ate growing up.

In the north, they use a lot of regular furu og meigui furu (玫瑰腐乳 rose furu) for marinades and sauces. Roses or rose extract is added during the final stages of fermentation, which changes the color and makes it a little more floral and sweet. And we blend that into a lot of the sauces we use – not only for the marinades, but also for noodle and stir-fry sauces. One of the most popular sauces at Junzi Kitchen is our furu-sesame sauce. The fermented tofu gives it just a hint of a funky flavor.

When we saw the ingredients for your furu-sesame sauce, we immediately thought of northern-style zhima jiang 芝麻酱, sometimes served with hot pot.

LS Exactly. That’s one reference for the flavor.

Aside from being used as a hot pot dipping sauce, where else does sesame sauce appear in Chinese cuisine?

LS It can be a cold sauce or a hot sauce for noodles. The temperature actually makes a big difference due to the texture of the oil. Sesame noodles are weirdly favored cold in Cantonese restaurants in the US. But you can also use sesame sauce as a dip, for hot pot as well as snacks like deep-fried fish balls or cheong fun.

We can’t think of another dish that mixes sesame sauce with a sweet chilli sauce the way that General Chu’s does.

LS Obviously, General Chu’s Chicken is a riff on perhaps the most important American Chinese dish of all time: General Tso’s Chicken.

The first time I had General Tso’s Chicken, I had no idea what was going on. I could identify sugar, soy, and corn starch. Other than that, it could have been ketchup, Sriracha, oyster sauce, anything. I didn’t have a clue. And that surprise, that sense that hvad som helst can go into a General Tso’s sauce was an inspiration for our General Chu’s sauce.

I reached for whatever I could find that would make fried chicken extra delicious, and I found furu: a little bit of funk, a little bit of nostalgia, and a little bit of curiosity. As for the sweet chilli sauce, I wanted to maintain American Chinese food’s signature delectable sweetness, which is why that’s there.

You’ve spoken about food as a narrative medium. What story does General Chu’s tell?

LS Well, the story about General Tso’s Chicken (or General Chao’s, or General Gau’s) is that the guy who invented it doesn’t even recognize the dish any more. Og han had named it after a guy who didn’t know the dish was named after Hej M. There’s so much mythology behind how the chicken came to be.

The dish itself is ubiquitous, and not because some secret Chinese restaurant headquarters declared, “This is how it’s going to be made from here on out.” It migrated through unspoken collaborations within a diaspora that happens to base a lot of its economy in restaurants. The recipes spread organically from somebody’s cousin to somebody’s uncle and onward throughout the United States.

Our General Chu’s chicken celebrates those same qualities. I named it after my first general manager who ran our restaurant in New Haven. He didn’t know until we put the posters up. He came in one day like, “Wait, what?” People started texting and emailing him for the recipe for his chicken, and he was all mixed up, saying, “I have nothing to do with that chicken. I don’t recognize it. I don’t even fry chicken that way at home. I have my own recipe, and I do it Korean-style.”

In New Haven especially, General Chu’s has become an object of almost cultish fascination. We’re by Yale, so all of these students come in going, “O-o-oh, can we get the General Chu’s chicken?” And someone’s like, “Not Chu’s, it’s General Chao’s,” and then, “No, no, no, it’s General Chu’s!” Nobody knows how to pronounce it or knows really what it is. But after they eat it a couple times, it becomes something familiar to come back for – an odd, indecipherable mix of sticky, funky, sesame.

So far, General Chu’s Chicken has made it to the late-night menu for both of our locations, and remains a signature dish. Hopefully, someone will taste it someday and say to themselves, “No, the batter should be done this way.” And they’ll go home and tweak the dish, while carrying on some of the original characteristics of General Chu’s. That would be amazing.

Photos courtesy of Junzi Kitchen. Get the General Chus Chicken recipe in The Illustrated Wok.


Se videoen: Domácí uncle bens s cuketou (Oktober 2021).